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Basic Hardware Question - Screws, thread pitch for plastics

Discussion in 'General Kayak Rigging' started by rbenash, Jun 11, 2013.

  1. rbenash

    rbenash Member

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    First - the screws that come with yakattack products are great. I wish I could get some in longer lengths than come with YA gear. Are they available? I'd also like to get the same screws in larger sizes, #8, #10, etc. And in cap head as well as flat head. Phillips is fine, not looking so much for slotted, socket head, etc.

    So what's the basic knowledge in terms of thread pitch and thread depth for screws being used for holding fittings to plastic hulls if you are not drilling through? We all know the standard sheet metal screw and pitch is not really the ticket.

    I have well nuts and the right pop rivets. Well nuts are pretty intrusive, pop rivets are OK but not as universal in application.

    There are some huge hardware stores (in addition to the typical big box stores) around me that have a really nice selection of stainless hardware. But when it comes to hardware best designed for self threading into poly hulls the pickings are slim. And if I would buy online I would want to make sure I'm getting the right stuff. Well best stuff that would match the YA type screws, pitch and depth of thread.

    Also working with Hook1/Chad

    Ray
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2013
  2. rbenash

    rbenash Member

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    Yeah, the question was serious :)

    Left emails as well. No response.

    What I need to know for a special application with Blackpack and Torqueedo integration into a Ride 115.

    I want the self tapping screws #10 that come with the YA G track but in longer lengths. Do you sell them or can you PM me with the source?

    I'm working on a pretty sweet U403 prototype/integration and if I can get some of those awesome self tapping screws in longer lengths would be the ticket.

    Don't want to be a PIA, but would REALLY like a pointer to the source or buy them direct.

    Still water trial was awesome on the second proto. Adding a hatch and 4 pin connector and will be all done.

    Can't really do threaded inserts easily due to the canted surface of the ridge around the rear well on the Ride.

    http://s80.photobucket.com/user/rbenash/library/Fishing/Ride 115_U403_P2

    Trial on stillwater in the ponds on Cape Cod was awesome. Have about 3 or 4 mods I want to make before a river trial.



    Thanks

    Ray
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2013
  3. Paul

    Paul New Member

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    Hi Ray
    as far as I can tell the thread pitch is a 10-16, matched it up to self tapers at hard wear store.
    hope this helps

    paul
     
  4. rbenash

    rbenash Member

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    Done that too, but those screws from YA are special/different. Anyway have been talking to Chad Hoover regarding my application and he's helping me out. Working on the final prototype of this U403 install on the Ride 115. Works great as tested on Cape Cod ponds last couple weeks. Good solid integrated mount. Wanting screws that will hold well and not pull. This is a very solid install no flex. I'm going to make the Blackpak removable rather than removing the whole rear deck plate. Going to install a 5" hatch on the plate and also build in quick disconnect for the motor (connector on the deck plate). The deck plate is integrated into the Blackpak with an aluminum angle and the Blackpak is solid mounted with expansion clamps. The total packake is so solid that I can lift up the loaded boat by picking up the U403 boom. Very nice. I'm using as many holes that were already there as possible. I think I drilled just one new hole in the boat for this second design.

    See link upthread.

    Off fishing a local river... leaving the electrics off for today as I'm working final mods on the rear deck plate tomorrow.

    I was hoping I could get some of those special YA screws in longer length is all as I move to somewhat permanent mount of the deck plate. Was going to do threaded inserts but the holes are through existing pocket in the hull and some are off camber (not level). So going to leave the plate attached so I don't wear out the holes in the plastic, want the screws to be right. Will modify the angle stock mount for the Blackpak so that I will have threaded inserts there and the Blackpak will attach with 3 simple thumb screws. I'll post the final once I'm done.

    Ray
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2013
  5. Paul

    Paul New Member

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    Ray
    where are you staying on cape cod im right here in sandwich
    paul
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2013
  6. YakAttack

    YakAttack Guest

    I looked for your emails and didn't see them but might have missed them - sorry about that. I have those screws in several lengths for prototyping ring me at the shop and we can see if we have what you want 4343923233
     
  7. rbenash

    rbenash Member

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    Never a problem. Not a big deal will definitely take you up on this. Those screws are pretty special IMHO. Will give a call Monday. Going to add a hatch and modify the U403 cable to integrate a plug connection to the deck plate this weekend.

    Ray
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2013
  8. rbenash

    rbenash Member

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    Here's the prototype 3 of the rear deck I am working, continuing to improve to create the "Electric Ride 115" integration. The goal is to leave the rear plate installed and remove/fit the black pack and the motor in as little time as possible.

    P2 Worked great on stillwater up on Cape Cod. All I am asking now is for some good screws to keep the plate mounted. Not a huge deal but I really like the Yak Attack self tappers. I don't need big honking screws. The BlackPak is a BIG part of the integration and overall rigidity along with using 1/4" Starboard for the plate. The 6" hatch creates the acessability for quick connect as well as storage access to that rear part of the well that is typically not used so much on the Ride unless you are camping, long trips, etc.

    Will push copy of this post to Chad and Juan. I would like to do a video on the 115 as modified with Juan once I'm done with this last bit of configuration.

    The ability to integrate the U403 in a nice tight fashion that allows one to remove/fit quickly as required is key. Lots of other mods on the boat, which are pretty much more common but this area specifically has been the most fun. The BlackPak is integral and plays a big part in the overall rigidity and stability of the design. Those things you won't pick up so readily in the photos.

    Just need 5 screws that I like :)

    http://s80.photobucket.com/user/rbenash/library/Fishing/Ride 115_U403_P3
     
  9. rbenash

    rbenash Member

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    Need to thank Luther for pointing me to the source for great screws. Luther - as it turns out the distributor was so close, got my order in 24 hours. Reasonable pricing too. Now I'm just trying to figure out a suitable replacement for the U403 connection from motor to battery. Almost there, just want to make sure I use something that's current rated the same. Challenge with the Torqueedo connector is that they combine power on 4 pins (but only use two of them) and signal on 4 smaller pins (only use 3) in the same coupler. I'll probably have to go to an connector with 6 pins all heavy since I can't figure out who Torqueedo used and they won't tell me. Markings on the plugs say LWI, but can find that MFG anywhere. Probably going to use something from the Bulgin catalog, order from Mouser.

    Anyway thanks again for spending the time. I have some very nice SS screws now that are so much better than what's available at the big box or local hardware store.

    Hook! sent me some of his #14 too, so I'm all set. Really appreciate it. Once I get this last proto wrapped up I'll post out an update.
     

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