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MightyMounts, FullBacks & Scewballs, oh my.........pic heavy

Discussion in 'Mounting Systems' started by Lt.FireDog, Jul 5, 2012.

  1. Lt.FireDog

    Lt.FireDog Administrator

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    Location:
    Florida's Treasure Coast
    Since I had a bit of free time 4th of July morning, I decided to do a quick project on my son's Ocean Kayak Scrambler 11...install a pair of YakAttack MightyMounts & Fullbacks that will be the foundation for mounting a RAM Tube 2008 rod holder and a VISICarbon Pro, both incorporating the 1.5" Screwball.

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    Designated mounting area behind cockpit. Normally you would see flush mounts here, but I like the reels to be as far away from the water as possible. I have installed Scotty holders in the past, but wanted to give RAM a try.

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    As an aid to the use of the Rigging Bullets & the overall project, I kept my Kindle Fire close at hand so I could use the the tutorial videos from Luther on the FullBack & Rigging Bullet....as Luther has said in the past "It's a rigging bullet, not a magic bullet", and it is a DIY project...so I needed all the help I could find! :D

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    Next step was to drill the four holes, following the video, I marked the first hole, drilled it then dropped in a screw and then drilled the other three...this way all four are spot on.

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    Next I dropped another screw in the opposite corner and inserted the two Rigging Bullets, which dropped cleanly into the hull, I then tilted the boat so the bullets and line would slide towards the front hatch (one at a time) where they will be screwed into the FullBack.

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    Once the Fullback was ready, I pulled the lines so that the plate was just below the MiightyMount and let it hang for a second as this allows the bullets to get lined-up, then I pulled them through no problem.

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    I then screwed in the first two screws (using the included Allen Key), then removed the bullets and screwed in the last two. Luther strongly suggests using some type of anti-seize dressing on the stainless steel screws...I used a Teflon based product that we use with our pool equipment.

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    I then repeated the install on the other side and when done, this was the end result.....

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    Overall, this was a pretty easy, straight forward project, but I did run into some bumps that slowed me down a little-
    I needed to make some of the holes a bit bigger to help get the bullets up to & through the MightyMount.
    On the second install I sent the rigging bullets down towards the front hatch, where they proceeded to go on either side of a scupper...when I pulled the backing plate back towards the MightyMount, it got stuck on the scupper tube, which caused me to stand the kayak almost on end and bang the bejesus out of the hull to get it to come loose.

    But all in all it wasn't too hard and the results are exactly what I wanted....and my son is happy too...and that's all that matters! [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2012
  2. YakAttack

    YakAttack Guest

    Looks great! Nice writeup!
     
  3. Fish Taco

    Fish Taco New Member

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    Lt. FireDog states "Luther strongly suggests using some type of anti-seize dressing on the stainless steel screws...I used a Teflon based product that we use with our pool equipment."

    Luther, would you mind talking about this for just a second... I'd like to know why you suggest this and what the reasoning is behind it... not questioning your expertise, just trying to understand and learn. :)

    Thanks, - Ken
     
  4. YakAttack

    YakAttack Guest

    Ken, stainless steel is a sticky metal and is subject to "galling" or "seizing". For those not familiar with this it's basically a cold weld. The surfaces of the threads of the nut and bolt rubbing together can "grab" one another and create little balls of metal - micro snowballs - between them. This causes them to mechanically bond. Once this happens it is impossible to loosen or tighten them. The only way to remove them is by drilling / grinding / cutting them apart.

    It doesn't happen often, but when it does it's such a pain that it's best to just always use anti-seize. This creates a lubricated barrier between the thread surfaces which prevents them from sticking.

    The use of locking nuts magnifies this problem because it creates extra friction. However, locking nuts are desirable on a kayak. Since you're just tightening plastics together they never really "tighten" the way steel would. So the locking threads keeps things from vibrating loose. Not that they would if properly tightened anyway but it's an added level of security.

    The effect of cold welding can be minimized with alloy selection of the nut and bolt. We're currently testing that, but will likely always recommend anti-seize, regardless of what results we achieve from our testing.

    To give a practical example, I was recently replacing some components on a kayak. The factory-installed fasteners seized when removing them. I barely got a half turn on the before I felt them grip. I had to drill the head off the bolt to remove them.

    I've had a lot of people tell me they've never had the problem. I tell them that if they use anti-seize they never will :)
     
  5. Fish Taco

    Fish Taco New Member

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    This is great and interesting information Luther, thank you! Where's the best place for me to find some of this anti-seize anyway? (West Marine, Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.?) Thanks, - Ken
     
  6. Lt.FireDog

    Lt.FireDog Administrator

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    Any auto parts store or Ace Hardware-
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  7. Fish Taco

    Fish Taco New Member

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    Perfect! I've got an Ace Hardware right in my neighborhood, I'll pick some up today. Thanks!

    - Ken
     
  8. USAntigoon

    USAntigoon New Member

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    Got my new Tarpon 120 and installed two MightyMounts-FullBack with the rigging bullets..With my iPad handy, the install went without any hick-up.. Thanks Luther for the video assist..
     

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